Chikankari is more than embroidery—it’s a tradition woven with love, especially when done the authentic way. And when it comes to black Chikankari kurtis, the contrast of white threadwork on deep black fabric makes it look absolutely royal.
But here’s the catch: with so many machine-made copies flooding the market, how do you make sure you’re buying the real thing? Whether you’re shopping online or at a local boutique, here’s your go-to guide to spotting an authentic black Chikankari kurti.
1. Look Closely at the Embroidery
Authentic Chikankari is hand-embroidered, which means:
- The threadwork may not be 100% uniform—but that’s the beauty of it.
- You might notice tiny knots or slight irregularities, showing a human hand at work
- Machine embroidery is too perfect and often looks flat, while handwork has a bit of texture and life.
Pro Tip: Flip the fabric over. In real Chikankari, the backside will have tiny knots, loose threads, or minor imperfections—not a neat finish like a machine job.
2. Check the Stitches
Chikankari isn’t just one type of stitch—there are many, like:
- Bakhiya (shadow work)
- Phanda (knot stitch)
- Keel Kangan (flower and leaf motifs)
A real Chikankari piece will have a combination of these stitches, all done by hand. If the embroidery looks too stiff, thick, or synthetic, it’s likely mass-produced.
3. Fabric Matters
Traditional Chikankari is done on:
- Cotton
- Muslin
- Georgette
- Chiffon
If the fabric feels too thick, plastic-like, or overly shiny—it’s likely not authentic. A genuine black Chikankari kurti will feel soft, light, and breathable, even if it looks rich.
4. Price Reflects the Craf
Let’s be real—authentic hand embroidery takes time and skill, so the price will reflect that. If you’re getting a black Chikankari kurti for a shockingly low price, chances are it’s machine-made or a poor copy.
Think of it as an investment in art—and in a piece you’ll wear and cherish for years.
5. Buy from Trusted Sellers
When in doubt:
- Shop from brands known for supporting Lucknowi artisans.
- Look for GI (Geographical Indication) tag or mention of hand embroidery.
- Ask the seller about the origin of the piece—if it’s truly handmade, they’ll proudly tell you.
If shopping online, read reviews, zoom in on product photos, and don’t hesitate to message the seller for details.
Why It’s Worth It
A black Chikankari kurti is versatile, classy, and never goes out of style. But buying an authentic one means you’re:
- Supporting Indian artisans
- Getting higher quality and durability
- Wearing something truly one-of-a-kind
Final Word: Let the Craft Choose You
Shopping for Chikankari isn’t just about buying clothes—it’s about appreciating a centuries-old craft. So the next time you spot a beautiful black kurti, take a moment to look closer, feel the fabric, and admire the detail. When it’s authentic, it shows—and you’ll feel the difference.

